A Complete Guide to Fly Fishing for Trout

Fly fishing is a technique that began half a millennium ago in Japan. When it made its way to Europe, trout fishermen realized the potential it could have and adopted fly fishing as their preferred method for fishing. 

A few centuries later, fly fishing followed the colonists to the New World, where it has remained a staple of game fishing ever since. Fly fishing, as the name suggests, uses light and typically ‘bug-like’ lures called flies to attract the target species, in this case, trout. Because the flies are so light, a more conventional or spinning setup would not be able to cast these lures far, if at all. Fly fishermen developed a weighted line that allows the fisherman to cast his or her to fly longer distances and with more precision than other methods would allow. 

The technology for fly fishing has changed drastically since its inception. The original fly rods were made of tonka bamboo, an especially stiff and resilient variety, and were far more delicate and heavier than the mainstream graphite rods of today. The line is no longer made from linen strands that would eventually become saturated and sink but synthetics that allow it to float longer and cast further. 

There is no doubt that fly fishing is a particularly challenging and exciting variety of fishing, and every angler should give it a shot. In this article, I will focus on the most popular species fly fishermen target, trout, and what strategies and equipment are needed to excel in fly fishing for trout. If you would like a personalized map of fishing locations near you, take the quiz below, and we will find the locations that best fit your style of fishing! 

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Essential Gear for Trout Fly Fishing

Rods

An important piece of gear for fly fishing is, of course, the rod. While there are dozens of options for different sizes, materials, and stiffnesses, it can be simplified to just a few categories. The most common length for a fly rod is about nine feet; the extra length makes it easier to cast and reach over the water to put your fly in an optimal position. There are two common materials, graphite and fiberglass, and each provides a different action. Graphite is stiffer and creates a faster casting stroke, while fiberglass is slower and gentler, which is better for dry flies, in my opinion. Bamboo is a third option but should not be anyone’s first rod as they are much more expensive and delicate, though they offer a more similar action to fiberglass rods. Finally, a fly rod is measured by its ‘weight,’ not the actual weight of the rod, but the stiffness or thickness of the blank it is built on. These measurements go from one to twelve or even a bit higher in some cases. For trout, you’ll mostly be staying below seven weight (7wt) rods. For the beginner trout fly fisherman, I recommend a nine-foot 5wt graphite rod as this will be the most versatile and durable option. For smaller streams and smaller fish, I also like to use my 7.5 ft 3wt graphite or fiberglass pole, so I don’t fling any fish out of the water on hooksets.

Reels

Fly reels are quite simple, though sometimes the price does not reflect that. There are very good options for around fifty dollars, and I wouldn’t spend more than this on a beginner’s setup, as your reel will basically be a glorified line holder unless the trout you plan on catching are monsters. Just find a reel that is the same size as the rod you have and call it a day. 

Read also: The Best Trout Lures: A Comprehensive Guide

Fly Lines

Fly lines are counted in the same way as fly rods are, 1wt-12wt, each line corresponding to the same number of rods. There are countless different names for fly lines, such as weight forward, sinking, floating, and intermediate, but most of the time, in trout fishing, these additional lines are not useful. For trout, a weight-forward floating line of the same size as your rod will be the best option. There are dozens of colors that you can go with for your fly line, and in my opinion, it does not matter. No matter the color of the line, if it is cast in a place where the fish can see it, it will spook them, so I like to say just pick your favorite color or one that you can see well. Fly lines are also typically more expensive than your typical monofilament, and the more you spend, the more longevity you will probably get out of the line. Most of my lines cost in the forty-to-sixty-dollar range, and I really wouldn’t recommend going much over that. A final thing to look out for in the fly line is the length. Typically, they range between eighty and a hundred twenty or so feet, and anything in this range should fit on the reel you have. 

Backing

Fly line backing is a second type of fly line, typically Dacron or braid, which goes below the fly line on the reel. This gives you an extra hundred or so yards of line in case a trout is really fighting. I will say mine is basically there for looks, as I have only had one trout ever take me into my back, and it was on an undersized rod. When picking a backing, if your reel doesn’t come preloaded, I would go with a twenty-pound again in a color you like. 

Flies

Anglers have developed countless different fly patterns over the past several hundred years, and nearly all of them will work in some instances. There are three categories that I like to break flies into: dry flies, nymphs, and streamers. Dry flies mimic a variety of bugs, from those that hatch out of the water, like mayflies (aquatic insects), to those that fall into the water, like grasshoppers (terrestrials). These will float on the surface of the water, and you will not need to do anything besides allow it to drift downstream. Nymphs mimic aquatic insects that have not hatched out of the water. These include everything from dragonfly nymphs to stoneflies and caddis. The last category is streamers. I throw everything that isn’t a nymph or dry fly into this category. A streamer can be anything from a small baitfish pattern to a topwater mouse or leech. I count anything where you use the rod or line to apply action to a streamer. These are typically larger flies and will need a larger rod closer to the six or seven weights I mentioned above. This is also where some people prefer to use sinking lines, which is another thing I will discuss below. One of my previous articles, titled The Best Trout Lures: A Comprehensive Guide, contains a list of my favorite flies and the best for beginner fly fishermen.

Waders and boots

One of the best ways to make your trout fishing experience more comfortable is a nice pair of waders and boots. The best way to fly fish for trout is to wade through rivers and streams that they inhabit. However, this water is quite cold, sometimes getting as low as the thirties Fahrenheit. Wading through this water without waders can be chilly if you aren’t used to it, and the slippery rocks make it a bit dangerous in some cases. This is where a pair of wading boots is important; these boots have soles made from a variety of materials, from rubber with metal cleats to felt. These materials have a better grip on the otherwise slippery rocks, making it both easier and safer to wade through the water. There are countless companies that make wading boots, but I would recommend getting a nicer pair, as you can wear them both with or without the waders if it is a warm day. As long as you take care of them, a good pair of wading boots will last you for over a decade, so there’s no reason to buy a super cheap pair. As far as waders go, there are also many good options. There are options that have both built-in boots, in which case you would not need a pair of boots, and stocking foot waders, which allow you to have a pair of boots separately. Boot foot waders are definitely the cheaper option but are typically bulkier and less comfortable while stocking foot waders are more comfortable but also more expensive. I wouldn’t recommend getting an expensive pair of waders to start with because, like me, you may find yourself wading without them more than with them, especially in the summer months. 

Pliers

Lastly, there are a few accessories that you may need to have the best luck fly fishing for trout. The first is a pair of pliers with line cutters; since you will typically be cutting just regular monofilament leader, you don’t need anything too fancy here, but I like a pair that has a longer nose for removing small flies from the fish’s mouth.

Nets 

Another thing that I would call essential is a landing net. When fly fishing for trout, you will typically be wading in the water, and when practicing catch and release, you don’t want to drag the fish onto the bank anyway, as trout are delicate. A landing net with a silicone bag is by far the best option; it is the gentlest on the fish and won’t catch any flies in the netting. 

Tippet

Leader material is also important to keep on hand. I’ll talk more about leaders later, but extra material, which we call tippet in the fly-fishing world, is necessary to extend these leaders or add a second fly below the first you’ve tied on. Tippet measures from 0x all the way down to 7x. This is the opposite of the rod weights, and the higher number actually indicates a lighter line. 7x is the smallest tippet, probably around a pound or so, though it varies based on the manufacturer. 

Fly boxes 

A less essential piece of gear is a fly box, or several of them, once you get more into fly fishing. Sometimes, I opt to just keep a few flies in a cup so that I don’t have to carry as much stuff, but a fly box is nice to organize your flies and keep track of what you have. I use pretty cheap clear boxes so I can remember what is inside of each and don’t have to open it each time. That is a pretty thorough list and description of the fly gear essentials, though there are, of course, many gimmicks and accessories that can be nice to have once you become more invested in fly fishing.

Trout Behavior

Putting the flies in a place where there may be trout is essential to catch trout. Though trout may be in just about any part of a river or stream, there are some places where they are more likely to be and where your chances of catching them are higher. 

Shallow riffles six to twelve inches deep will hold trout in the warmer months, but they are typically fewer than the deeper holes. When looking for the best places to cast, look first for deeper water; two or three feet deep is ideal, in my experience, as these fish are typically more willing to eat than those in deep pools. You want the water to move quickly, but whitewater is not ideal. Again, trout will be in nearly every section of the river. Within these deeper pools, look for the path where bubbles are traveling downstream on the surface; this is typically where food travels in the current and where fish will be feeding; try casting here first. 

Large rocks that create sections of slower water behind them are also ideal spots for trout; there will typically be trout in front of the rock and behind in the eddy created by the rock. Logs are also good spots to fish as they give trout a good place to hide in case of danger. I find my most success in fishing logs that are parallel to stream flow. 

The final water marker that I look for is called a seam. This is found where faster water runs past slow-moving water, creating a great place where trout can spend less energy fighting the current while still having food flowing by. Seams have a very obvious look to them, and once you know what they look like, they will quickly become one of your most successful places to cast. 

Trout behavior does change between the seasons, and the best water to fish for them does as well. 

Summer will have the most consistent fishing as the warm water speeds up the trout’s metabolism and causes them to feed more readily. A big dry fly can be extremely good over about any water in the summer. Trout will sit in deeper pools when the water gets too warm, but as long as you are below this temperature (which depends on location), they can be caught virtually anywhere, especially in the deeper riffle sections of the river. 

Fall is also an awesome time to fish; the cooling temps cause most species of trout to move upstream to spawn, and they will feed on small baitfish and nymphs without too much persuasion. Start to target deeper runs in the fall and try places that seem smaller than you may fish in the summer. 

Winter can bring about tough fishing. If the water gets too cold, trout will stop feeding completely, and you will have a tough time hooking one. I like to fish a deep indicator rig in mostly the deep, slow pools in the winter months. 

Spring once again brings about excellent trout fishing. The water warms and the trout begin to feed readily once again. Big dry flies are very successful in the spring as well because this is when the big bugs hatch after winter ends. Trout will move a little bit further downstream in the spring, pushed by higher water from snow runoff and increased rainfall.

Casting

Fly casting can be a little bit difficult for beginners and is often portrayed or done incorrectly. You don’t want to take many false casts, waving your rod around five or six times before casting. The best practice is to have only a bit of line out and use the water tension on the flies to tension the rod and throw the flies upstream. This will not only make you less likely to get tangled but will also keep your flies in the water longer. There are a number of different casting techniques that have been developed over the years which help get the flies where you want them to be. 

Basic cast: 

The basic cast is what I have just mentioned above, allowing the flies to drift downstream past you; you build tension in the rod and can flip the flies back up to the top of the pool; with a bit of practice, you will get quite quick and accurate with this. 

The progressions after this become more difficult, and depending on the types of streams or rivers you are fishing, you can decide which casts are most necessary for you to learn. 

Roll cast

A roll cast allows you to throw a line out a long way when there is not much space behind you. To do this, you will leave a few feet of fly line on the water in front of you and bring your rod tip forward and down quickly, throwing the line forward, there are many good videos on how to do this online.

Overhead cast 

Another important cast to learn, which is a bit easier than a roll cast, is an overhead cast. This cast is what you think of when you hear fly fishing, lots of line out, twirling around. To perform this, pick your line up of the water by moving your rod back and forth; each time you let the line back or forward, let a bit more out until you have the desired amount, then bring your rod tip down to about waist level and allow the line to propel forward. This, again, will take practice but is quick to perform when you have plenty of space behind you. 

Again, don’t overdo the forward and backward casting; do as few as you can and get your fly back in the water. And for every cast, as soon as the line hits the water, your fly line should go under your pointer finger on the rod grip so it will not slip when you get a bite.

Fly Presentation

Presenting the fly is probably the most important part of getting a bite. A lot of the presentation comes from how good you are at casting if you can put the fly in the correct place and set it down gently on the water. 

Connecting the fly

First off, the fly is connected to the fly line by a monofilament leader. This leader is tapered from a thicker butt section down to a thin line called a tippet. This taper allows the fly to extend out instead of falling at the end of the fly line. This leader should be about the length of your rod, so on average, nine feet. An improved clinch knot is perfect in most cases, and I have never had one slip when tied correctly. 

Fly rigs

There are a number of ways to rig flies, from a single dry-up to a three-fly dropper rig. The most common strategies are indicator rigs and dry dropper rigs.. 

Indicator rigs 

An indicator rig involves a floating bobber of some kind, either made of plastic, foam, or wool, depending on which you prefer, and one or more nymphs a few feet below. These are simple to rig; you can tie just one fly straight to the end of your leader or add multiple by tying the tippet to the hook bend of the first fly and tying another nymph six to twelve inches below that. An indicator rig is best when the fish aren’t eating surface flies, and you only need the nymphs. They are super simple to fish as you just wait for the bobber (fly fishermen call it an indicator) to go down and set the hook.

Read also: The Ultimate Guide to Setting Up Your Trout Fishing Rig: Techniques, Tips, and Tackle

Dry dropper

 A dry dropper is very similar, except you use the dry fly as your bobber and tie a nymph a foot or two off the hook bend. This setup gives you a dry fly for the rising fish and a nymph for the less willing trout. There are many varieties of these rigs, and I encourage you to test them out and find what you prefer. For an indicator rig, you want the line below the bobber to be as deep as the water you are fishing in or a little bit deeper. Trout sits on or near the bottom, and you want your nymphs to bounce along just on the river bottom. For the dry dropper, just try to measure the dropper at the average depth you will be fishing; you won’t be able to adjust it as easily as a bobber rig because it is connected with knots. For each of these, target the same water we talked about above, though I recommend focusing more on the deeper water for the indicator rig, as this is where you will have more success. 

Most trout fly fishing requires what we call a dead drift. This is when you cast the flies upstream and let them flow down with the current; make no adjustments yourself. The best way to accomplish this is to keep as little of your flyline on the water as possible, as the line will cause drag. The better the fly or indicator on the surface travels with the current, the higher the chance you will have of getting a bite. A good tip is to follow the fly or indicator on the water’s surface with your rod tip as it travels downstream.

Fighting the Fish

Trout are not typically huge; your average fish will probably be around thirteen inches depending on where you are fishing, but fly fishing makes it a bit more difficult to land the fish because the rod is more flexible, and you don’t have a reel in the same way you do on a spinning rod. When you do get a bite (when your top fly or bobber goes down), set the hook by bringing your rod up and downstream. You don’t want to go too quickly, but this should be a firm and swift motion. Always set the hook by pulling downstream, if possible; the fish are faced upstream, so this action will give you the best shot at a hookup. Once the hook is set, don’t try to fight the fish by using the reel. Your line should already be under your pointer finger, so pull with your free hand on the excess fly line to bring the fish closer to you. Keep the rod tip high; for the smaller fish, it may be enough to just lift your rod and drag the fish to your net, but for the larger ones that fight harder, you will have to play the fish, follow it with your rod and apply pressure until it tires, always keeping your rod up. If you are alone, it is a little more challenging to net the fish. You will have to drag it towards you and reach out with your free hand to scoop the fish up. It can be a bit challenging at first, but after a few, it will get less awkward. Handling trout is very important in catch and release as they are a delicate species. You should never touch the fish unless your hands are wet, as the trout’s slime coat will come off on your hands and kill the fish. Keep them out of the water for as little time as possible, and hold the fish over your net when taking a picture. Allow the trout to swim off on its own; don’t push it into the current or throw it into the water.

Fly Fishing Tips for Trout

Matching the Hatch

For decades, fly fishermen have selected the fly they will use by ‘matching the hatch.’ This means that you put a fly on that looks like the flies you already see around or in the water. I sometimes like to flip over rocks in the water to see what insects are underneath and pick a fly that looks like that for my dropper. As far as dry flies go, you will not typically see large numbers of a specific fly out of water, but you can pick based on the season. In summer, I always put on a fly that looks like a grasshopper in some way, as there are always hoppers falling into the water. In cooler months, I don’t typically use a dry fly, but if I do, I’ll wait to put it on until I see a hatch of aquatic insects off the water. These can be hard to recognize at first, but if you see a large number of bugs on the water surface or flying just above, try putting on a fly that imitates one of those. 

Careful approach 

When wading, there are a few important tips that will help you to be much more successful. The first and most important is to wade upstream. Trout face into the current and have great vision; if you approach from above the fish, it is likely you will spook the fish and be unable to get a cast at them. When wading upstream, some assume the fish will not be disturbed by what you do downstream of them, but again, trout are very finicky, and if you move a rock or splash too much, you will ruin your chances at fishing in the hole above you. Shadows are also something to be wary of, as trout’s main predators are birds like hawks and eagles. If they spot a quick-moving shadow in shallow or clear water, that fish will be gone and not likely to return for a good half hour. 

Read also: Trout of North America: The Complete Guide

Beginner Mistakes

One of the biggest misconceptions, in my opinion, about fly fishing is that fly selection is important. When I first started, I would have luck nearly every time with random flies that I thought looked cool. While sometimes it is better to use a fly that matches the hatch, as I said above, most flies mimic bugs that are in all trout waters or are close enough. Don’t spend too much time worrying about your fly being perfect for the situation. It is more important to make good casts and clean them with no drag drifts. Another mistake that will be remedied with practice is whipping your rod and splashing the flies down on the water. Sometimes, this will not cause an issue, but when using an indicator, I have never had better luck when my bobber splashes in the water; I try to set it down more gently (trout spook easily). Casting for too long, as stated above, is another beginner tendency that can be fixed quickly. Remember, the fish can’t bite unless your flies are in the water, so try to maximize the time your flies are drifting and minimize the number of false casts you make when repositioning your flies. When learning how to fly fish for trout, experience is the most important factor. The more you do it, the better you will get.

Conclusion

Fly fishing is a challenging and rewarding technique that will require you to learn new skills to catch trout. The gear you have will make it easier to catch fish, but the most success comes from years of experience fishing for trout and understanding their habits, so don’t give up if you struggle to catch your first fish. The beautiful colors and patterns on trout, along with the scenery you encounter when fishing for them, will make a day of fly fishing for trout one of the most rewarding things, even if you don’t catch much fish. I hope you enjoyed reading this article. As always, good luck and tight lines!

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Photo Source: All photos in this article were provided by expert Pierce Latta.

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